With a full 9 days off work around the 4th of July holiday, I had planned a long trek through the Yosemite High Country. From Tuolumne Meadows, through the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, up and over to Hetch Hetchy, it would have been a grand adventure through some areas of Yosemite that I’ve never been in.

Mother Nature had other ideas for me.

In early May, the massive winter snowfall was already showing signs of messing up that plan, so I got a backup permit to go from Old Big Oak Flat Road Trailhead, along the north rim of Yosemite Valley, up to Tenya Lake and back down to Happy Isles. A very long journey indeed.

As July approached, my first plan was looking like it would be impossible since the Tioga Road was not even open to anything except through traffic (no stopping), meaning getting to the trailhead would be almost impossible. Trail conditions were also making completing and/or surviving that route very doubtful.

My backup plan was looking to be my best choice. Although before my trip they were saying the creek crossings if I went up to Tenya Lake and down to Happy Isles may be as high as 4 feet. I’m 5’ 10”.

Regardless, I set off from Old Big Oak Flat Road Trailhead and climbed up steadily towards the top of El Capitan. While I’d have liked to get all the way to El Capitan that day, the distance and elevation gain made that unlikely. Maybe if I had started earlier in the day (which would mean I’d have to get my permit the day before) or started from Tamarack Flat (less elevation to climb) I could have done it, but I did make it about a mile further than the last time I did this particular trek.

Stopping with a view of Turtleback Dome, I settled in for the night and enjoyed the sunset. While there wasn’t any massive walls of granite to see the light reflected off of to the West (the best part of sunsets in Yosemite), the sunset was still very nice. The sun rose behind some trees so I didn’t see it directly, but some clouds in the sky did give me some interesting light effects.

After packing my gear, I finished the 3 miles to El Capitan and spent some time enjoying the views from up there. The last time I did this trek, I had stopped for the night and camped on top of El Capitan. This time, I didn’t want to stop that early in the day (it was barely 10am), so after enjoying the sights I continued on.

My goal for the night was Eagle Peak and I made it with plenty of time to spare. I even managed to grab a spectacular camping spot perched on the edge of the Valley rim, just a few feet below the top of Eagle Peak.

The views at sunset and sunrise were nothing short of spectacular!! While the setting sun to the West was nice, the sunsets in Yosemite are always more about what the last light of the day splashes across. Clouds Rest, Half Dome, and the entire Clark Range lit up to entertain me.

The next morning, I packed up and headed towards North Dome. First stop was the top of Upper Yosemite Falls. While it looks spectacular from below and from the Yosemite Falls Trail, being up close to the water as it pushes itself over the edge and down to the middle cascades is always an impressive sight and you can feel the power of the water in your bones.

Then it was time to climb up and beyond Yosemite Point. Again, spectacular views all around. After enjoying that view, I started upwards yet again (lots up ups and down in Yosemite). I passed a fantastic camping spot on the first legal place to camp above Yosemite Point. I had stayed there the last time I was on this trail and enjoyed it immensely.

But I was going to get to North Dome to camp no matter what. It wasn’t that bad until the final drop down to the saddle connecting the dome to the rest of the rim. Once that obstacle course was completed, I found a perfect camping spot with a closeup view of Half Dome and enjoyed my dinner a little early.

Why early? Because I wanted to spend the rest of the evening on the very top of North Dome enjoying the 360 degree view. Not quite as spectacular as the top of Clouds Rest, but one of the most spectacular 360 degree views in the park.

As North Dome’s own shadow rose against the face of Half Dome, the daylight changed to a dark red and lit up Clouds Rest, Half Dome, and the Clark Range. Yes, the same ones I saw from Eagle Peak the night before, but closer and maybe even redder than the night before.

After enjoying that show, I settled in for the night and managed to get some very nice pictures of Half Dome and the stars that surrounded me. I saw some lights flicker on top of Half Dome several times that night, so I guessed some people may have stayed up there for the night.

Sunrise was very nice as well, although at this time of year it doesn’t light up the face fo Half Dome during sunrise. Regardless, seeing the light roll across the Clark Range and then the sun peek out from near Clouds Rest made the morning very enjoyable.

And then I headed for the Snow Creek area via Indian Ridge. I decided to skip going up to the arch and Indian Rock. I had already seen them previously and didn’t have much of a reason to see them this trip.

When I reached the footbridge, I had to decide to continue up towards Tenya Lake and the long trek to Happy Isles, or pizza in the Valley. Pizza won.

That was not too surprising. I had pretty much decided against the full loop before setting off and only took food for 5 nights. All that lay ahead of me was the horrible switchbacks along the Snow Creek Trail. After suffering through those, I arrived back in the Valley and got some pizza, Coke, and a real bed (sort of… a tent cabin at Curry Village 🙂 ).

So, I managed to do the entire North Rim of the Yosemite Valley and felt quite good about that. I had done it in sections before, but never the entire stretch. A fun 4 days on the trail.

It also allowed me to finally get a chance to camp at the top of Eagle Peak. So I have now camped at each of what I consider the 4 prime camping spots on the North Rim: Top of El Capitan, top of Eagle Peak, the cliff above Yosemite Point, and the top of North Dome (twice).

34 miles from Old Big Oak Flat Road trailhead to Mirror Lake trailhead. 2-3 more miles walking while I tried to hitchhike back to my Jeep. Thankfully, two nice people helped me avoid walking all the way back.

As I mentioned I had the whole week off, so here it was Wednesday morning and I had to decide what to do.

I could have done some day hiking and some exploration of Tuolumne Meadows (Tioga Road had opened while I was on the North Rim), but I hate being in the areas in Yosemite that are accessible by roads during peak holidays. A short wilderness backpacking hike was possible, but couldn’t decide where I wanted to go that would be accessible with the current trail conditions. And I did have another idea as to what to do:

Climbing Mt Shasta.

Nowhere near Yosemite, but my Jeep had wheels. 🙂